What exactly are metering modes and why should you be aware of how they work? Modern camera's have built in light meters that measure the light in a given situation allowing your camera to select appropriate exposure settings for the scene in front of you. Selecting one of the three available metering modes will determine how your camera will measure the available light and ultimately what exposure values will be set for your photograph.
With a compact camera, being aware of what metering mode you are using (or may need to use for a given scene) is not as much of a concern - especially if you become familiar with the auto exposure lock feature. On my compact Canon camera, I always left the metering on Evaluative and made good use of the exposure lock feature to get the desired look. If, for example, I wanted a good exposure on a sunset - I would focus on different areas (watching the LCD screen for my desired look) and lock the exposure once my ideal exposure was attained. After locking the exposure I would simply re-compose and re-focus and then take the photo. This was a simple technique that allowed me to not worry about metering while getting the photo I was after.
Looking through the viewfinder of a digital SLR we are not going to have this instant feedback and ever changing view of the LCD screen like we will on a compact camera. With that in mind, understanding and utilizing the camera's metering modes becomes more important for more desirable results. Any camera will have a choice of three different metering modes: Matrix or Evaluative (Nikon uses the term Matrix while Canon uses Evaluative - other brands may differ), Center Weighted and Spot.
With Matrix or Evaluative metering, your camera will analyze the frame in its entirety and select an exposure that represents an average of the scene. This is a good default mode and will suffice for many situations. I tend to leave my camera set to Matrix for best results around the house and quick photos. The draw back of this metering type can show up in scenes with lots of contrast - you may end up with blown out highlights in the background, a subject being too dark or a bland, uninteresting final exposure. I do not recommend this type of metering for sunsets.
Center weighted metering still evaluates the entire scene, with a strong concentration on about the 75% of the scene in the very center. Areas outside of this range (which varies with brands) are given only minor consideration when selecting the final exposure. This is a handy mode to help keep your main subject exposed the desired way and aid in eliminating the influence of bright or dim spots on the outer areas of the frame.
Lastly, we have Spot metering. Like the name implies, spot metering uses a very small selection of the scene to determine the exposure. This is usually in the very center of the frame, though many cameras may allow you to select a point in the frame to use as the metering spot. I have found with a DSLR that spot metering is the best choice when taking photos of sunsets. What I will do is focus on a specific area of the sunset that I think will give me the look I am after (to get the brilliant colors to show, and usually a shadowed landscape) and use the exposure lock feature to lock in exposure before recomposing and finally taking the photo. This has yielded great results, while using Matrix metering ends up getting the landscape nicely exposed, while the colors of the sunset get washed out and over exposed.
If you find yourself switching between metering modes often, you may want to assign them to the dedicated custom function button (if your camera allows) or add them to any customized shortcut menus like the My Menu option available on Nikon's D5100.
Blessings,
Jesse
My blog dedicated to my journey through the art of photography, learning, experimenting and exploring the beauty of God's creation through the viewfinder of a camera.
Saturday, January 5, 2013
Wednesday, December 12, 2012
Exploring Nikon's D5100
After moving up to a DSLR from a compact (especially if you have never spent any time with a DSLR), there may be a bit of information overload with all the options and/or buttons. This shouldn't last long or be very pronounced with Nikon's D5100 as the function buttons are logically and effectively organized. While many DSLR's have function buttons located along the left side, the hinge for the articulating LCD screen eliminates this option - instead placing them along the top and right sections of the rear of the camera.
Like most camera's today you will have a dial to select the shooting mode that includes options starting from full auto, ranging to scenic options like portrait, and making the way to semi-manual modes like shutter priority and then full manual.The live view switch is to the left of the mode dial with the shutter release, video record button close by as well. You'll find the flash function button and a customizable function button near the lens release button by the D5100 tag on the front of the camera body.
The camera body is not too big, and it also does not feel tiny in your hands - I happen to like the size and feel of the camera personally. For shooting options not attached to dedicated buttons the menu is divided up nicely based on function and is easy to find what you are looking for and after a few trips through the menu you will be able to adjust menu functions rather quickly. There is even a handy recent settings menu that will display the options last changed. And as nice as that option is, you can choose to switch the recent settings menu tab to instead display the my menu option where you can select which menu options you want in the list for quick changing. I discovered that one by accident, but glad I did - it is very handy!
I have found for quick shots indoors of family, the portrait preset is a great option to default to. You will most likely get images with flash and ISO 800 on this setting if your lighting is dim, but they will be very evenly exposed with balanced tones and no point and shoot flash white out look. I have not been disappointed with the quality of this combination yet.
For outdoor and scenic photos, I tend to leave the camera on Program after setting my desired base options (such as Large/Fine for the JPG quality setting). Another menu setting (one I have in my custom my menu setting) that is a good one to be familiar with is the Auto ISO setting. When this option is on you set the base ISO and then the maximum ISO/minimum shutter speed combination and the camera will adjust ISO if needed. One word of caution though: if you plan to do some manual exposure settings (like the moon photos I wrote about in October) you will want to make sure the Auto ISO setting is off - or it will interfere with you desired results.
Like most DSLR's today the D5100 has a live view option for using the LCD screen to compose images. This can come in handy in some situations when used in conjunction with the articulating LCD screen to make composing a photo that would otherwise be extremely difficult, if not impossible to compose relying on the view finder only. Other than those situations, I am not a big fan of live view on a DSLR. Also keep in mind that there is a delay in shooting when using live view. When you enter live view the mirror flips up to allow the shutter to open and expose the sensor. When you go to take you shot the mirror flips down, then back up, the camera then takes the photo and after that leaves the mirror up and re-enters the live view session.
Another option I haven't had time to experiment with is the interval timer function, which allows you to set the camera to take photos at a preset and customizable time interval, handy for time lapse photography. After setting the time between photos you will also choose how many photos the camera will take, ranging from 1 to 999. A fully charged battery or an AC Adapter will be a must for this option.
After a couple months of shooting with the D5100 the camera does not disappoint. It also makes a great choice for photo enthusiasts or beginners looking to get into DSLR photography with out completely draining the bank account. While it may lack some of the more advanced features of the D7000, that doesn't take away from the camera in my opinion - it is still a fantastic and plenty capable camera.
Blessings,
Jesse
Like most camera's today you will have a dial to select the shooting mode that includes options starting from full auto, ranging to scenic options like portrait, and making the way to semi-manual modes like shutter priority and then full manual.The live view switch is to the left of the mode dial with the shutter release, video record button close by as well. You'll find the flash function button and a customizable function button near the lens release button by the D5100 tag on the front of the camera body.
The camera body is not too big, and it also does not feel tiny in your hands - I happen to like the size and feel of the camera personally. For shooting options not attached to dedicated buttons the menu is divided up nicely based on function and is easy to find what you are looking for and after a few trips through the menu you will be able to adjust menu functions rather quickly. There is even a handy recent settings menu that will display the options last changed. And as nice as that option is, you can choose to switch the recent settings menu tab to instead display the my menu option where you can select which menu options you want in the list for quick changing. I discovered that one by accident, but glad I did - it is very handy!
I have found for quick shots indoors of family, the portrait preset is a great option to default to. You will most likely get images with flash and ISO 800 on this setting if your lighting is dim, but they will be very evenly exposed with balanced tones and no point and shoot flash white out look. I have not been disappointed with the quality of this combination yet.
For outdoor and scenic photos, I tend to leave the camera on Program after setting my desired base options (such as Large/Fine for the JPG quality setting). Another menu setting (one I have in my custom my menu setting) that is a good one to be familiar with is the Auto ISO setting. When this option is on you set the base ISO and then the maximum ISO/minimum shutter speed combination and the camera will adjust ISO if needed. One word of caution though: if you plan to do some manual exposure settings (like the moon photos I wrote about in October) you will want to make sure the Auto ISO setting is off - or it will interfere with you desired results.
Like most DSLR's today the D5100 has a live view option for using the LCD screen to compose images. This can come in handy in some situations when used in conjunction with the articulating LCD screen to make composing a photo that would otherwise be extremely difficult, if not impossible to compose relying on the view finder only. Other than those situations, I am not a big fan of live view on a DSLR. Also keep in mind that there is a delay in shooting when using live view. When you enter live view the mirror flips up to allow the shutter to open and expose the sensor. When you go to take you shot the mirror flips down, then back up, the camera then takes the photo and after that leaves the mirror up and re-enters the live view session.
Another option I haven't had time to experiment with is the interval timer function, which allows you to set the camera to take photos at a preset and customizable time interval, handy for time lapse photography. After setting the time between photos you will also choose how many photos the camera will take, ranging from 1 to 999. A fully charged battery or an AC Adapter will be a must for this option.
After a couple months of shooting with the D5100 the camera does not disappoint. It also makes a great choice for photo enthusiasts or beginners looking to get into DSLR photography with out completely draining the bank account. While it may lack some of the more advanced features of the D7000, that doesn't take away from the camera in my opinion - it is still a fantastic and plenty capable camera.
Blessings,
Jesse
Monday, November 12, 2012
A Diaper Bag Can Double As A Camera Bag
Here is a quick tip for those with babies in diapers: a diaper bag can double as a camera bag in a pinch - or just double up its usefulness for a day if you don't want to bring your regular camera bag for the day's activities.
When my family and I headed out for the annual Pumpkin Pitch event in our community, I didn't want to bring the camera case and have to lug it around the event or leave it in the car and tempt trouble. With the 55-300mm lens on the camera body, I tucked the smaller 18-55mm in a lens pouch and placed it snugly in the diaper bag. I wouldn't end up using the smaller lens, but it was nice knowing it was close by just in case.
The diaper bag was also a inconspicuous camera concealer for the trip home when we stopped to do some grocery shopping. One (very quick!) stop we left the bag in the car with a jacket covering part of it and the longer stop I just slung it over my shoulder and we were able to shop with out worrying about a camera left in the car.
Blessings,
Jesse
When my family and I headed out for the annual Pumpkin Pitch event in our community, I didn't want to bring the camera case and have to lug it around the event or leave it in the car and tempt trouble. With the 55-300mm lens on the camera body, I tucked the smaller 18-55mm in a lens pouch and placed it snugly in the diaper bag. I wouldn't end up using the smaller lens, but it was nice knowing it was close by just in case.
The diaper bag was also a inconspicuous camera concealer for the trip home when we stopped to do some grocery shopping. One (very quick!) stop we left the bag in the car with a jacket covering part of it and the longer stop I just slung it over my shoulder and we were able to shop with out worrying about a camera left in the car.
Blessings,
Jesse
Thursday, November 1, 2012
This Year's Pumpkin Carvings
Every year my wife and I will go to a local farm to pick out a few pumpkins to carve. And every year I'll take pictures of our creation. This year we found a couple patterns on-line to trace and as always the third pumpkin would be a freehand carving by myself.
It is fun tradition and the photography part can always pose some unique challenges, especially when the amount of candle light varies greatly between patterns. The camera can also pose a challenge, such as last year when I only had the ability to control exposure compensation with my compact Canon SD950. This year, with the Nikon DSLR, I could control everything if needed.
My favorite of the bunch turned out to be a surprise favorite, as the image did not look that great on the LCD preview. A 6 second exposure at f/5.6 gives this image a warm orange glow all around, an effect I was not going for intentionally - but really like the end result.
Being able to combine a hobby with family traditions is always a plus, and makes the hobby more enjoyable as it doesn't eat away time better spent with family.
Blessings,
Jesse
It is fun tradition and the photography part can always pose some unique challenges, especially when the amount of candle light varies greatly between patterns. The camera can also pose a challenge, such as last year when I only had the ability to control exposure compensation with my compact Canon SD950. This year, with the Nikon DSLR, I could control everything if needed.
My favorite of the bunch turned out to be a surprise favorite, as the image did not look that great on the LCD preview. A 6 second exposure at f/5.6 gives this image a warm orange glow all around, an effect I was not going for intentionally - but really like the end result.
Being able to combine a hobby with family traditions is always a plus, and makes the hobby more enjoyable as it doesn't eat away time better spent with family.
Blessings,
Jesse
Thursday, October 11, 2012
Sometimes Simple Photos Become Favorites
Sometimes a quick idea, an impromptu photo, something simple - becomes a favorite photo - or at least a favorite of the day. For me, this was the case recently when my family and I attended the annual Pumpkin Pitch event in our community.
I took this one near where we had parked for the event. As I was looking for something of potential photographic interest, I ended up with this photo of some seeding grass growing up by a strand of barbed wire.
I am a firm believer that you can find a good photo nearly anywhere, so don't be afraid to experiment and point you camera at a seemingly ordinary situation - you just may come out with a new favorite photo.
Blessings,
Jesse
I took this one near where we had parked for the event. As I was looking for something of potential photographic interest, I ended up with this photo of some seeding grass growing up by a strand of barbed wire.
I am a firm believer that you can find a good photo nearly anywhere, so don't be afraid to experiment and point you camera at a seemingly ordinary situation - you just may come out with a new favorite photo.
Blessings,
Jesse
Saturday, October 6, 2012
Shooting the Moon
One type of photo I have been aching to take was a shot of the moon. I read a quick tip in Popular Photography on the technical aspects on how to get the shot, and have been waiting for a DSLR to be able to actually take one myself. The tip is simple and produces great results. In manual mode, start with an aperture of f/16 (for a full moon) and set you shutter to be 1/ISO. For a less than full moon, open up the aperture to adjust the exposure.
For my full moon shot shown below, I liked the exposure better at f/18 instead of the suggested f/16. This shot was taken at 1/200 @ f/18, ISO 200.
When it came to my first successful moon shot (image number two), taken two nights after the full moon - the best exposure I found was 1/200 @ f/13, ISO 200. What I really like about the less than full moon shot is the detail of the craters that shows up near the shadow line.
The half moon shot (last image) is where things deviated from the quick tip by quite a bit. Following the magazine tip to the letter may work if you have big f/2.8 zoom lenses, but for most of us and our variable aperture lenses - we will have to get a little more creative. For this shot, my favorite exposure turned out to be 1/10 @ f/11 ISO 400. Of course, we can experiment with shutter speeds and aperture combinations, but this night I wasn't going to spend too much time away from my family since I already got a shot I liked.
When taking photos of the moon, a sturdy tripod is a must. You won't need anything super expensive, but something a little sturdier than a $20 department store special will serve you well. Making use of either a remote shutter release or (as in my case) the camera's self timer is also a must. I found that a ten second self timer was perfect, as it gave the camera time to settle any movement completely after I pressed the shutter.
Full moon (Harvest Moon):
Two nights after the August 31st, full moon:
Half moon (low enough in the sky to have a slight yellow hue):
These photos also mark the start of a new gallery dedicated to night & astronomical photography.
Blessings,
Jesse
For my full moon shot shown below, I liked the exposure better at f/18 instead of the suggested f/16. This shot was taken at 1/200 @ f/18, ISO 200.
When it came to my first successful moon shot (image number two), taken two nights after the full moon - the best exposure I found was 1/200 @ f/13, ISO 200. What I really like about the less than full moon shot is the detail of the craters that shows up near the shadow line.
The half moon shot (last image) is where things deviated from the quick tip by quite a bit. Following the magazine tip to the letter may work if you have big f/2.8 zoom lenses, but for most of us and our variable aperture lenses - we will have to get a little more creative. For this shot, my favorite exposure turned out to be 1/10 @ f/11 ISO 400. Of course, we can experiment with shutter speeds and aperture combinations, but this night I wasn't going to spend too much time away from my family since I already got a shot I liked.
When taking photos of the moon, a sturdy tripod is a must. You won't need anything super expensive, but something a little sturdier than a $20 department store special will serve you well. Making use of either a remote shutter release or (as in my case) the camera's self timer is also a must. I found that a ten second self timer was perfect, as it gave the camera time to settle any movement completely after I pressed the shutter.
Full moon (Harvest Moon):
Two nights after the August 31st, full moon:
Half moon (low enough in the sky to have a slight yellow hue):
These photos also mark the start of a new gallery dedicated to night & astronomical photography.
Blessings,
Jesse
Tuesday, October 2, 2012
Learning SLR photography with a Nikon D5100
After years of wanting to get into more advanced photography with an SLR, I have recently been blessed to be able to purchase one. I was recently able to purchase a Nikon D5100 kit with the 18-55mm & 55-300mm zoom lenses, and will be documenting my learning experience and exploration of more involved photography here.
While today's compacts are very capable camera's that produce very good images , there is still a big difference between an SLR when it comes to quality and especially control. There are just some photos you will not be able to get with the limitations of fixed lens cameras.
My first impressions are very favorable and the D5100 feels very comfortable in your hands and the buttons are well laid out. I have tested the camera out at a local Costco, so there are no real surprises as far as the general camera body goes. The LCD screen is an articulating screen, which eliminates the left side of the body for function buttons, but that isn't a big deal as accessing camera functions is very simple with one button that allows you to cycle through available options with out accessing a menu.
For functions that are only accessed through the menu, you will be able to find them very easily as the entire menu is broken down into sections relative to the type of function and you even have a recent settings menu that displays (and allows you to modify) the menu settings you have changed previously.
I am excited to share my learning experience, tips and photos I take along the way - starting with a photo of some Hibiscus flowers taken at my in-laws.

Blessings,
Jesse
While today's compacts are very capable camera's that produce very good images , there is still a big difference between an SLR when it comes to quality and especially control. There are just some photos you will not be able to get with the limitations of fixed lens cameras.
My first impressions are very favorable and the D5100 feels very comfortable in your hands and the buttons are well laid out. I have tested the camera out at a local Costco, so there are no real surprises as far as the general camera body goes. The LCD screen is an articulating screen, which eliminates the left side of the body for function buttons, but that isn't a big deal as accessing camera functions is very simple with one button that allows you to cycle through available options with out accessing a menu.
For functions that are only accessed through the menu, you will be able to find them very easily as the entire menu is broken down into sections relative to the type of function and you even have a recent settings menu that displays (and allows you to modify) the menu settings you have changed previously.
I am excited to share my learning experience, tips and photos I take along the way - starting with a photo of some Hibiscus flowers taken at my in-laws.
Blessings,
Jesse
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