In any industry the advent (and improvement) of technology will lead
to the inevitable changing of the guard from the way it started to the new technology way. The industry of photography is no different,
having started with film and now nearly fully transitioned to digital
(at least in the consumer space). With this transition to digital has
come a huge boost in popularity and accessibility as very high quality
equipment is available at reasonable costs. The digital transition also
eliminates the ongoing costs of purchasing and developing film while at the same time making it easier to capture great photos. Granted,
you will still need to pay for prints of digital photos and factor in a memory card (or cards) purchase, but these have a
minimal cost comparatively - especially
after amortizing the number of photos you get on one memory card.
With
film there was the dark room, and in the early days of digital
photography Adobe's Photoshop was king and Corel's Paint Shop Pro tried
to compete in the photo editing/developing software arena. Paint Shop Pro
would eventually fade away, and while it is true the program has not
been scrapped and is still available (in updated versions no less), you
hear very little of it in the photography industry and the program
fetches a price more on par with Photoshop Elements. With Photoshop well established as an industry leader in the
commercial photo editing software, Adobe again led the way and started a new type of photo editing program with their release of Lightroom. At a much lower price point (though still not cheap) Lightroom was designed specifically for photography and is essentially a digital darkroom.
With this boom in popularity and accessibility for digital photography - coupled with the high end commercially available development software, where does that leave a Linux enthusiast? Are we stuck using proprietary operating systems to run expensive software or stuck running non native commercial software with Wine technology? A number of years ago the answer would probably be yes and go back a few more years and running a Linux based operating system for a home computer would be an even less favorable proposition for many. As it is now, desktop Linux has come a long way and offers a very usable system with many excellent tools to offer photography enthusiasts - all at no cost to the end user (save for the cost of a CD, DVD or USB drive that is used for installation).
With that preface, now lets look at some native Linux software for digital photography. I realize there are likely programs I may have not covered here, but what I have outlined below is a good start and these programs are fairly well known and I have some familiarity with them as well.
In the tradition of the jack of all trades imaging program that comes with nearly endless options useful for digital photo development we will be looking at Pinta and The GIMP. Pinta is a more basic editor and is not as feature rich as The GIMP program and is probably more suited for less advanced users and/or users with more basic photography needs. That is not to say it doesn't have potential or that it is not worth a look. On top of the basic sizing, cropping and rotating you will find options to adjust curves, levels, hue/saturation as well as brightness & contrast. There are also some preset options for sepia tone and black and white conversion. Though, being a more basic editor these are click and go with no adjustments and user control available.
The GIMP on the other hand is very feature rich and an open source project that I feel has tremendous potential - this on top of already being a robust and capable program. The development has been painfully slow in the past, and a user interface design that was cumbersome are realities that have likely been a deterrent for some users. The 2.8 release addressed the UI issue and included many other core updates to the program, and now I feel the potential is really starting to be fulfilled. A couple options that have been missing are also in the works: High bit depth editing is already in the development branch and is scheduled to show up in the stable 2.10 release, while script recording and playback is on the horizon sometime after version 3.0. On top of all the basic options you would find in Pinta, The GIMP offers a plethora of color adjustment options, a channel mixer (great for black and white conversion), a decent list of filters as well as options to extend functionality with plug-ins for a start. While The GIMP is available cross-platform (and I have used it on Windows and OSX), the program runs best under a Linux system from my experience.
Linux doesn't lack a good digital dark room photo program either. First released in 2009, DarkTable is a complete digital dark room style photo editor - currently on version 1.1.4. You will find all the usual suspects when looking over the available functions: Everything from color adjustments, exposure, sharpening, white balance, curves, tethering and RAW support - really to many options to list out individually. Another options is RawTherapee. I have not used RawTherapee, but it appears to have a feature set that would be expected from a modern Dark Room style application.
For photo organization my favorite is Shotwell, which is also the default photo management program in the Ubuntu distribution (which I use). Shotwell organizes photos in events based on dates (from EXIF data), which can be renamed and photos/videos can be moved between event albums. You can also view photos by individual tags if you have tagged images. Shotwell also has support for viewing RAW photos, some basic image adjustments, red-eye removal and the ability to upload to Flickr and Picasa as well as other publishing targets. I have my program set to monitor a pictures folder and Shotwell will automatically import new photos when the program is loaded. DigiKam is also very popular (mainly among KDE based distributions) and has a very dedicated fan base. DigiKam includes many editing and enhancing options as well as a panorama stitching feature. A third option is F-Spot - again, an option I don't have any real experience with to comment on.
For creating panoramic photos, you cannot go wrong with Hugin. A specialized program designed specifically for stitching panoramic shots, Hugin also supports creation of HDR photographs.
The last piece of software to mention in this article is OpenShot. While OpenShot is a non-linear video editor, I am mentioning it here as a tool for creating slide-show videos from your photographs. Of course as a video editor it can do much more, but that is one photography related use as that is our subject. There is also Kdenlive if you are looking for a second option.
So there you have it, a quick run down on some of the software available on Linux based systems for the digital photographer. Is Linux worth a look for a photo enthusiast? My answer would be absolutely. And for those interested, I have created a customized version of the Ubuntu Linux distribution with some of the photography related software detailed above installed by default. The operating system can even be run from a DVD for a trial run with no hard drive changes. My custom version can be download from Sourceforge here.
Blessings,
Jesse
Monday, March 25, 2013
Tuesday, February 5, 2013
Nikon's New D5200
On November 6th Nikon announced the D5200, the mid level DX offering to replace the 16MP D5100. Unsurprising to many I am sure, the D5200 sports a 24MP sensor like the entry level offering of the D3200. After all, pixel count is an easily marketed feature and the consumer would expect the mid-level and advanced offerings to match the entry level version in presumed image quality. It will be interesting to see any side by side comparisons of the image quality of the two cameras, as judging by the published specifications on Nikon's site they are not the same 24MP sensor.
Besides the boost in resolution, the D5200 also gets an upgraded auto focus system borrowed from the D7000 while retaining the articulating LCD screen and many of the D5100's features. With this announcement (and subsequent release of the camera) the stage is set for all of Nikon's DX DSLR's to offer 24MP sensors, provided the D7000 replacement follows suit. At that point the biggest (at least on the specification sheet) difference will be the features of the individual camera bodies. Not a bad plan as it simplifies the DX line beautifully, but what I am wondering is how they will name the D7000 replacement. Do they skip D7100 and go straight to the D7200 which would make the current line up read D3200, D5200 and D7200? Or do they just stick with the current trend and the D7100 will be one numeral behind in convention? Time will tell for sure.
Either way, I am looking forward to seeing the usual magazine tests of not only the D5200 - but the D3200 as well. I am especially interested in how they are reviewed in performance compared the D5100 I own (what can I say, I am a gear junkie in the fact that I like to see and know what is out there - even when I am not planning on upgrading anytime soon).
On thing is for sure though - its hard to imagine a better time to be a photography enthusiast. Today's technology is making better and better equipment available at more affordable prices every year. And when these new models come out, the older ones go on sale, become available as factory refurbished models at noticeable savings and find there way on to the secondary market at even better prices as people play the must have game and upgrade to the latest offerings.
Blessings,
Jesse
Besides the boost in resolution, the D5200 also gets an upgraded auto focus system borrowed from the D7000 while retaining the articulating LCD screen and many of the D5100's features. With this announcement (and subsequent release of the camera) the stage is set for all of Nikon's DX DSLR's to offer 24MP sensors, provided the D7000 replacement follows suit. At that point the biggest (at least on the specification sheet) difference will be the features of the individual camera bodies. Not a bad plan as it simplifies the DX line beautifully, but what I am wondering is how they will name the D7000 replacement. Do they skip D7100 and go straight to the D7200 which would make the current line up read D3200, D5200 and D7200? Or do they just stick with the current trend and the D7100 will be one numeral behind in convention? Time will tell for sure.
Either way, I am looking forward to seeing the usual magazine tests of not only the D5200 - but the D3200 as well. I am especially interested in how they are reviewed in performance compared the D5100 I own (what can I say, I am a gear junkie in the fact that I like to see and know what is out there - even when I am not planning on upgrading anytime soon).
On thing is for sure though - its hard to imagine a better time to be a photography enthusiast. Today's technology is making better and better equipment available at more affordable prices every year. And when these new models come out, the older ones go on sale, become available as factory refurbished models at noticeable savings and find there way on to the secondary market at even better prices as people play the must have game and upgrade to the latest offerings.
Blessings,
Jesse
Thursday, January 17, 2013
A Trip Through The Archives - Photo From Cannon Beach
What is the point of having a vast collection of photographs if you never look through them? If there is one big draw back to digital photography, I would have to say that it makes you photography collection easy to forget about. Instead of a collection of developed and printed photos, you have a collection of digital files with only the select few getting printed while the vast majority sit on the hard drive out of sight and out of mind.
Having a good photo management program helps alleviate the take, download and forget routine - as it makes it easy to browse through a large collection and review photos you may have forgotten about. With my photo management software, I like to look through my digital albums occasionally as a way to spark memories of the events and adventures they document. On one of these recent trips through the archives, I can across a photo that had been overlooked and for some reason I decided to look at the basic enhancements offered by the photo management program (Shotwell) I use - just to play around with it. Well, what I realized was that the photo long since dismissed when I first reviewed it simply needed a slight boost in saturation to really make the photo stand out.
Taken in Canon Beach on a typical Pacific Northwest spring day and coupled with the tendency of some digital cameras to render a colder color temperature - the unadjusted photo feels very flat and dead. But with a quick (and minor) adjustment to the saturation and color balance and the photo is brought to life.
For comparison, below is the untouched original.
Sometimes all you need is some time removed from when the photo was originally taken and sorted to appreciate it. So don't forget about your archives, and certainly make some time to wander through them - you never know when a new favorite will pop up or what you may have missed the first time through.
Blessings,
Jesse
Having a good photo management program helps alleviate the take, download and forget routine - as it makes it easy to browse through a large collection and review photos you may have forgotten about. With my photo management software, I like to look through my digital albums occasionally as a way to spark memories of the events and adventures they document. On one of these recent trips through the archives, I can across a photo that had been overlooked and for some reason I decided to look at the basic enhancements offered by the photo management program (Shotwell) I use - just to play around with it. Well, what I realized was that the photo long since dismissed when I first reviewed it simply needed a slight boost in saturation to really make the photo stand out.
Taken in Canon Beach on a typical Pacific Northwest spring day and coupled with the tendency of some digital cameras to render a colder color temperature - the unadjusted photo feels very flat and dead. But with a quick (and minor) adjustment to the saturation and color balance and the photo is brought to life.
For comparison, below is the untouched original.
Sometimes all you need is some time removed from when the photo was originally taken and sorted to appreciate it. So don't forget about your archives, and certainly make some time to wander through them - you never know when a new favorite will pop up or what you may have missed the first time through.
Blessings,
Jesse
Saturday, January 5, 2013
Understanding Metering Modes
What exactly are metering modes and why should you be aware of how they work? Modern camera's have built in light meters that measure the light in a given situation allowing your camera to select appropriate exposure settings for the scene in front of you. Selecting one of the three available metering modes will determine how your camera will measure the available light and ultimately what exposure values will be set for your photograph.
With a compact camera, being aware of what metering mode you are using (or may need to use for a given scene) is not as much of a concern - especially if you become familiar with the auto exposure lock feature. On my compact Canon camera, I always left the metering on Evaluative and made good use of the exposure lock feature to get the desired look. If, for example, I wanted a good exposure on a sunset - I would focus on different areas (watching the LCD screen for my desired look) and lock the exposure once my ideal exposure was attained. After locking the exposure I would simply re-compose and re-focus and then take the photo. This was a simple technique that allowed me to not worry about metering while getting the photo I was after.
Looking through the viewfinder of a digital SLR we are not going to have this instant feedback and ever changing view of the LCD screen like we will on a compact camera. With that in mind, understanding and utilizing the camera's metering modes becomes more important for more desirable results. Any camera will have a choice of three different metering modes: Matrix or Evaluative (Nikon uses the term Matrix while Canon uses Evaluative - other brands may differ), Center Weighted and Spot.
With Matrix or Evaluative metering, your camera will analyze the frame in its entirety and select an exposure that represents an average of the scene. This is a good default mode and will suffice for many situations. I tend to leave my camera set to Matrix for best results around the house and quick photos. The draw back of this metering type can show up in scenes with lots of contrast - you may end up with blown out highlights in the background, a subject being too dark or a bland, uninteresting final exposure. I do not recommend this type of metering for sunsets.
Center weighted metering still evaluates the entire scene, with a strong concentration on about the 75% of the scene in the very center. Areas outside of this range (which varies with brands) are given only minor consideration when selecting the final exposure. This is a handy mode to help keep your main subject exposed the desired way and aid in eliminating the influence of bright or dim spots on the outer areas of the frame.
Lastly, we have Spot metering. Like the name implies, spot metering uses a very small selection of the scene to determine the exposure. This is usually in the very center of the frame, though many cameras may allow you to select a point in the frame to use as the metering spot. I have found with a DSLR that spot metering is the best choice when taking photos of sunsets. What I will do is focus on a specific area of the sunset that I think will give me the look I am after (to get the brilliant colors to show, and usually a shadowed landscape) and use the exposure lock feature to lock in exposure before recomposing and finally taking the photo. This has yielded great results, while using Matrix metering ends up getting the landscape nicely exposed, while the colors of the sunset get washed out and over exposed.
If you find yourself switching between metering modes often, you may want to assign them to the dedicated custom function button (if your camera allows) or add them to any customized shortcut menus like the My Menu option available on Nikon's D5100.
Blessings,
Jesse
With a compact camera, being aware of what metering mode you are using (or may need to use for a given scene) is not as much of a concern - especially if you become familiar with the auto exposure lock feature. On my compact Canon camera, I always left the metering on Evaluative and made good use of the exposure lock feature to get the desired look. If, for example, I wanted a good exposure on a sunset - I would focus on different areas (watching the LCD screen for my desired look) and lock the exposure once my ideal exposure was attained. After locking the exposure I would simply re-compose and re-focus and then take the photo. This was a simple technique that allowed me to not worry about metering while getting the photo I was after.
Looking through the viewfinder of a digital SLR we are not going to have this instant feedback and ever changing view of the LCD screen like we will on a compact camera. With that in mind, understanding and utilizing the camera's metering modes becomes more important for more desirable results. Any camera will have a choice of three different metering modes: Matrix or Evaluative (Nikon uses the term Matrix while Canon uses Evaluative - other brands may differ), Center Weighted and Spot.
With Matrix or Evaluative metering, your camera will analyze the frame in its entirety and select an exposure that represents an average of the scene. This is a good default mode and will suffice for many situations. I tend to leave my camera set to Matrix for best results around the house and quick photos. The draw back of this metering type can show up in scenes with lots of contrast - you may end up with blown out highlights in the background, a subject being too dark or a bland, uninteresting final exposure. I do not recommend this type of metering for sunsets.
Center weighted metering still evaluates the entire scene, with a strong concentration on about the 75% of the scene in the very center. Areas outside of this range (which varies with brands) are given only minor consideration when selecting the final exposure. This is a handy mode to help keep your main subject exposed the desired way and aid in eliminating the influence of bright or dim spots on the outer areas of the frame.
Lastly, we have Spot metering. Like the name implies, spot metering uses a very small selection of the scene to determine the exposure. This is usually in the very center of the frame, though many cameras may allow you to select a point in the frame to use as the metering spot. I have found with a DSLR that spot metering is the best choice when taking photos of sunsets. What I will do is focus on a specific area of the sunset that I think will give me the look I am after (to get the brilliant colors to show, and usually a shadowed landscape) and use the exposure lock feature to lock in exposure before recomposing and finally taking the photo. This has yielded great results, while using Matrix metering ends up getting the landscape nicely exposed, while the colors of the sunset get washed out and over exposed.
If you find yourself switching between metering modes often, you may want to assign them to the dedicated custom function button (if your camera allows) or add them to any customized shortcut menus like the My Menu option available on Nikon's D5100.
Blessings,
Jesse
Wednesday, December 12, 2012
Exploring Nikon's D5100
After moving up to a DSLR from a compact (especially if you have never spent any time with a DSLR), there may be a bit of information overload with all the options and/or buttons. This shouldn't last long or be very pronounced with Nikon's D5100 as the function buttons are logically and effectively organized. While many DSLR's have function buttons located along the left side, the hinge for the articulating LCD screen eliminates this option - instead placing them along the top and right sections of the rear of the camera.
Like most camera's today you will have a dial to select the shooting mode that includes options starting from full auto, ranging to scenic options like portrait, and making the way to semi-manual modes like shutter priority and then full manual.The live view switch is to the left of the mode dial with the shutter release, video record button close by as well. You'll find the flash function button and a customizable function button near the lens release button by the D5100 tag on the front of the camera body.
The camera body is not too big, and it also does not feel tiny in your hands - I happen to like the size and feel of the camera personally. For shooting options not attached to dedicated buttons the menu is divided up nicely based on function and is easy to find what you are looking for and after a few trips through the menu you will be able to adjust menu functions rather quickly. There is even a handy recent settings menu that will display the options last changed. And as nice as that option is, you can choose to switch the recent settings menu tab to instead display the my menu option where you can select which menu options you want in the list for quick changing. I discovered that one by accident, but glad I did - it is very handy!
I have found for quick shots indoors of family, the portrait preset is a great option to default to. You will most likely get images with flash and ISO 800 on this setting if your lighting is dim, but they will be very evenly exposed with balanced tones and no point and shoot flash white out look. I have not been disappointed with the quality of this combination yet.
For outdoor and scenic photos, I tend to leave the camera on Program after setting my desired base options (such as Large/Fine for the JPG quality setting). Another menu setting (one I have in my custom my menu setting) that is a good one to be familiar with is the Auto ISO setting. When this option is on you set the base ISO and then the maximum ISO/minimum shutter speed combination and the camera will adjust ISO if needed. One word of caution though: if you plan to do some manual exposure settings (like the moon photos I wrote about in October) you will want to make sure the Auto ISO setting is off - or it will interfere with you desired results.
Like most DSLR's today the D5100 has a live view option for using the LCD screen to compose images. This can come in handy in some situations when used in conjunction with the articulating LCD screen to make composing a photo that would otherwise be extremely difficult, if not impossible to compose relying on the view finder only. Other than those situations, I am not a big fan of live view on a DSLR. Also keep in mind that there is a delay in shooting when using live view. When you enter live view the mirror flips up to allow the shutter to open and expose the sensor. When you go to take you shot the mirror flips down, then back up, the camera then takes the photo and after that leaves the mirror up and re-enters the live view session.
Another option I haven't had time to experiment with is the interval timer function, which allows you to set the camera to take photos at a preset and customizable time interval, handy for time lapse photography. After setting the time between photos you will also choose how many photos the camera will take, ranging from 1 to 999. A fully charged battery or an AC Adapter will be a must for this option.
After a couple months of shooting with the D5100 the camera does not disappoint. It also makes a great choice for photo enthusiasts or beginners looking to get into DSLR photography with out completely draining the bank account. While it may lack some of the more advanced features of the D7000, that doesn't take away from the camera in my opinion - it is still a fantastic and plenty capable camera.
Blessings,
Jesse
Like most camera's today you will have a dial to select the shooting mode that includes options starting from full auto, ranging to scenic options like portrait, and making the way to semi-manual modes like shutter priority and then full manual.The live view switch is to the left of the mode dial with the shutter release, video record button close by as well. You'll find the flash function button and a customizable function button near the lens release button by the D5100 tag on the front of the camera body.
The camera body is not too big, and it also does not feel tiny in your hands - I happen to like the size and feel of the camera personally. For shooting options not attached to dedicated buttons the menu is divided up nicely based on function and is easy to find what you are looking for and after a few trips through the menu you will be able to adjust menu functions rather quickly. There is even a handy recent settings menu that will display the options last changed. And as nice as that option is, you can choose to switch the recent settings menu tab to instead display the my menu option where you can select which menu options you want in the list for quick changing. I discovered that one by accident, but glad I did - it is very handy!
I have found for quick shots indoors of family, the portrait preset is a great option to default to. You will most likely get images with flash and ISO 800 on this setting if your lighting is dim, but they will be very evenly exposed with balanced tones and no point and shoot flash white out look. I have not been disappointed with the quality of this combination yet.
For outdoor and scenic photos, I tend to leave the camera on Program after setting my desired base options (such as Large/Fine for the JPG quality setting). Another menu setting (one I have in my custom my menu setting) that is a good one to be familiar with is the Auto ISO setting. When this option is on you set the base ISO and then the maximum ISO/minimum shutter speed combination and the camera will adjust ISO if needed. One word of caution though: if you plan to do some manual exposure settings (like the moon photos I wrote about in October) you will want to make sure the Auto ISO setting is off - or it will interfere with you desired results.
Like most DSLR's today the D5100 has a live view option for using the LCD screen to compose images. This can come in handy in some situations when used in conjunction with the articulating LCD screen to make composing a photo that would otherwise be extremely difficult, if not impossible to compose relying on the view finder only. Other than those situations, I am not a big fan of live view on a DSLR. Also keep in mind that there is a delay in shooting when using live view. When you enter live view the mirror flips up to allow the shutter to open and expose the sensor. When you go to take you shot the mirror flips down, then back up, the camera then takes the photo and after that leaves the mirror up and re-enters the live view session.
Another option I haven't had time to experiment with is the interval timer function, which allows you to set the camera to take photos at a preset and customizable time interval, handy for time lapse photography. After setting the time between photos you will also choose how many photos the camera will take, ranging from 1 to 999. A fully charged battery or an AC Adapter will be a must for this option.
After a couple months of shooting with the D5100 the camera does not disappoint. It also makes a great choice for photo enthusiasts or beginners looking to get into DSLR photography with out completely draining the bank account. While it may lack some of the more advanced features of the D7000, that doesn't take away from the camera in my opinion - it is still a fantastic and plenty capable camera.
Blessings,
Jesse
Monday, November 12, 2012
A Diaper Bag Can Double As A Camera Bag
Here is a quick tip for those with babies in diapers: a diaper bag can double as a camera bag in a pinch - or just double up its usefulness for a day if you don't want to bring your regular camera bag for the day's activities.
When my family and I headed out for the annual Pumpkin Pitch event in our community, I didn't want to bring the camera case and have to lug it around the event or leave it in the car and tempt trouble. With the 55-300mm lens on the camera body, I tucked the smaller 18-55mm in a lens pouch and placed it snugly in the diaper bag. I wouldn't end up using the smaller lens, but it was nice knowing it was close by just in case.
The diaper bag was also a inconspicuous camera concealer for the trip home when we stopped to do some grocery shopping. One (very quick!) stop we left the bag in the car with a jacket covering part of it and the longer stop I just slung it over my shoulder and we were able to shop with out worrying about a camera left in the car.
Blessings,
Jesse
When my family and I headed out for the annual Pumpkin Pitch event in our community, I didn't want to bring the camera case and have to lug it around the event or leave it in the car and tempt trouble. With the 55-300mm lens on the camera body, I tucked the smaller 18-55mm in a lens pouch and placed it snugly in the diaper bag. I wouldn't end up using the smaller lens, but it was nice knowing it was close by just in case.
The diaper bag was also a inconspicuous camera concealer for the trip home when we stopped to do some grocery shopping. One (very quick!) stop we left the bag in the car with a jacket covering part of it and the longer stop I just slung it over my shoulder and we were able to shop with out worrying about a camera left in the car.
Blessings,
Jesse
Thursday, November 1, 2012
This Year's Pumpkin Carvings
Every year my wife and I will go to a local farm to pick out a few pumpkins to carve. And every year I'll take pictures of our creation. This year we found a couple patterns on-line to trace and as always the third pumpkin would be a freehand carving by myself.
It is fun tradition and the photography part can always pose some unique challenges, especially when the amount of candle light varies greatly between patterns. The camera can also pose a challenge, such as last year when I only had the ability to control exposure compensation with my compact Canon SD950. This year, with the Nikon DSLR, I could control everything if needed.
My favorite of the bunch turned out to be a surprise favorite, as the image did not look that great on the LCD preview. A 6 second exposure at f/5.6 gives this image a warm orange glow all around, an effect I was not going for intentionally - but really like the end result.
Being able to combine a hobby with family traditions is always a plus, and makes the hobby more enjoyable as it doesn't eat away time better spent with family.
Blessings,
Jesse
It is fun tradition and the photography part can always pose some unique challenges, especially when the amount of candle light varies greatly between patterns. The camera can also pose a challenge, such as last year when I only had the ability to control exposure compensation with my compact Canon SD950. This year, with the Nikon DSLR, I could control everything if needed.
My favorite of the bunch turned out to be a surprise favorite, as the image did not look that great on the LCD preview. A 6 second exposure at f/5.6 gives this image a warm orange glow all around, an effect I was not going for intentionally - but really like the end result.
Being able to combine a hobby with family traditions is always a plus, and makes the hobby more enjoyable as it doesn't eat away time better spent with family.
Blessings,
Jesse
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